 |
| Adios Los Canos de Meca |
 |
| On the road again - the ubiquitous "Toro" sculptures throughout Spain |
After the easy beachside relaxedness of Los Canos we were tightly packed in the car to start pounding the tourist trail.
 |
| Parading past the Catherdral. Seville |
Seville is a gracious and enjoyable old city with an aristocratic air. The tourist tat is relatively subdued even in the heart of the most touristic sections, although perhaps the charm stemmed from the way that even these areas were integrated into a well-planned living town that is more than just a showcase for days of yore. We had our first taste of the Moorish influence here; the Alcazar is one of the most famous Moorish-palaces-appropriated-by-later-Spanish-royalty (there are a few). Equally memorable was the Flamenco performance we saw at the Flamenco Museum: vibrant, sexy, superbly performed and beautifully weighted. Much better than the touristy tablao we saw in Barcelona: this was the real deal and even the kids paid attention.
 |
| Sexy Flamenco, Seville |
 |
| Carraige ride, Seville |
 |
| "Generalife" palace, Alhambra, Granada |
Granada is the home of the justifiably famous Alhambra ; The Moorish jewel in Andalucía’s crown, the last Muslim bastion in the 15th century reconquista of Spain. The palace complex is a must see world heritage item that requires bookings days in advance to gain entry and hours to walk around. A series of perfectly sculpted gardens, courtyards, buildings and rooms within suggest not just an appreciation of beauty and architecture, but also a lightness of spirit that is lacking from other Islamic edifices such as the Blue Mosque and the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. Something about those buildings evoked the a sense of the despots and the abject slavery that built them, but in Andalucia, the Islamic legacy seems more benign, notwithstanding 7 centuries of intermittent but bloody warfare that precipitated their ultimate defeat and banishment.
 |
| The Nasrid Palace, Alhamba, Granada. |
After 8 days on the road looking at historic buildings the kids were climbing the walls, so we switched our focus to nature for the trip North on our way to meet up with an old mate, Rob Ugarte, our only European contact for the trip.
 |
| Bushwalking between the Lagunas, Ruidera |
Parc Natural Lagunas de Ruidera is centered on a series of lakes occupying a small part of the otherwise featureless plains north of the Sierra Grande. Winter was having her last hurrah; rain clouds scudded across the sky as the wind whistled through the bare trees and across the cold grey waters. We didn’t mind though: once again we were the only guests, and the food in the Hotel Albanjon was simply superb. A good bushwalk followed by duck liver confit and a bottle of Rioja back in the snug restaurant was right on the money.
 |
| A bit wet for us up high in the Sierra de Gredos |
 |
| Much nicer further down the valley. |
Parc Natural Sierra De Gredos was our next stop: a climbing and hiking mecca in spring and Autumn; we were perhaps a bit early to enjoy the best of the area, with snow falling each day, and the high walks under snow and hence inaccessible without more serious gear than joggers. There were plenty of Spaniards out for a weekend hike though, some bedecked in crampons and goretex, others just in joggers with umbrellas. We followed an old cobbled Roman road though the mists and snow-capped peaks, and spooked the kids with the story of “The Shining” on the drive into the mountains. However, the old world charm of the state-owned Parador Hotel we stayed at was eerily reminiscent of the Overlook Hotel from that film, complete with snow drifts, grey stone walls, long corridors, and sculpted hedges. Nonetheless, the urge to take to the family with an axe seemed no stronger than usual, and the in-house, Michelin-recommended Restaurant once again contributed to the waistline spread: a net calorie gain despite a few good walks in the Park.
 |
| Not another old church..... |
Segovia is another charming old town and the home of the castle that forms the inspiration for the one housing Disney’s Sleeping Beauty. By this stage only threats of corporal punishment would induce the kids to enter another old building, but happily the displays of swords, armour and cannons were sufficiently distracting to get us through the visit without a major meltdown. The Sephardic restaurant in the Hotel was excellent although a rare night out for the parents was spent happily trawling bars and snacking on tapas.
 |
| Awoken beauties in Segovia |
 |
| Restaurant Hotel del Oso.... We'll be back |
 |
| Suckling Pig and Rioja weren't the only attractions |
On Rob ‘s recommendation we stopped next in the Picos de Europa; an amazing mountain range within sight of the north coast and the Atlantic. The drive took us from the high plain, up through a misty mountain valley surrounded by sheer rocks and snow-capped peaks, and up and over the pass of the Puerto de Gloria . The picture perfect Hotel Del Oso is high in a valley and run with warmth, attention and skill by the same family for decades. One day stretched to 2, 3, and 4 as we worked our way through the list of walks in the shadow of these incredible alps, not to mention the menu (roast suckling lamb or pig meant a whole leg) and the wine list.
 |
| The lonely and dramatic drive into the Picos de Europa |
 |
| Working up an appetite in the Picos |
 |
| The boys grab a wave in the 14 degree Atlantic on the Spring Equinox. |
After 3 years of emailing we finally caught up with Rob in the coastal town of Suances. Rob is a larger than life surfer and adventurer from the Bra who I have variously sailed and studied with over the years and who, for the moment at least, lives in the town his father was born in and calls Spain home. True to form he lost no time calling in sick; He, Tara and their three kids were perfect hosts and we packed a lot into 2 days; a menu dal dia in then nearby historic village, a blokes night (hurrah) on the town, then a family beach picnic, a surf in the chilly Atlantic, and a family night out. They seemed to know everyone in the town (and the next one) and the visit was constantly punctuated by Rob calling out “¡Eh- hombre!” and exchanging handshakes, backslaps and pleasantries with locals strolling by. It looks like a good life; but we’ll see if the lure of the Bra and old Aussie friends wins out in the medium term against Spanish equanimity and the downsides of life on the big smoke treadmill.
 |
| Hosts and Guests, Suances. |
 |
| A giggle at the Gugga: Bilbao |
Up early for a big drive back to Barcelona to complete the circuit: A quick stop at the Guggenheim and then across the country in one hit. Barca was as inviting the second time as it was the first; but we had tickets booked and so after only one day for Moira and Cathe to hit the shops we had the whole catastrophe packed in the car and at the airport. Adios Espania!
