AWAY AT LAST

After weeks of preparation we are finally away on the high seas. Admittedly this time included our Italian road trip but it is fantastic to feel we are finally commencing the big voyage. Biograd had become a bit like being at home, with our favourite haunts and people in the neighbourhood, so leaving means we are now completely rootless wanderers.

The first day's sailing was the 22nd and we headed south with the last of a moderate bora (all of the winds have names, the bora is a westerly wind from the mountains and can be very stong in the winter). We reached down the coast in the 15-20 kt breeze, negotiating the beautiful but confusing Kornati Islands. It became immediately obvious as to why this region is one of the most popular sailing destinations in Europe, and after almost sailing up a deep bay by mistake it was also apparent that installing the new radar/chartplotter at the helm was more than just a good idea. Familia sailed very nicely and coped with the bigger gusts in a well-mannered fashion, keeping the stress to a minimum.

We downed sails and motored into Sibenik down a narrow dramatic channel, the entrance guarded by an old medieval fortress, past the more recent submarine caves, and then into the large harbour in front of the town. We motored up and down, trying to work out just where we were supposed to berth, before pulling into the town quay in front of the old town. A perfect first docking under our belts (albeit it later transpired we had sucked the mooring line into the bow thruster, necessitating a chilly foray into the water with the leatherman) and we were enjoying beers and milkshakes in the bar across the road. From there we treated ourselves to a celebratory meal in Restaurant Pillegro, dining al fresco on a narrow elevated cobblestone walkway, overlooking the old town square and the main church and sampling some local fine wine. Yes, we are underway!



The next morning we decided to explore the town. Sibenik has a beautiful old town, with narrow lanes, cathedrals, and the mandatory old fort on the hill with views commanding the harbour and aproaches. Reminiscent of Venice but without the hordes of tourists and the in-your-face retail shops.

A passerby in Biograd had recognised our accents and insisted we visit the Krka National Park on our journey south. Using a map he drew on an envelope (OK, and one we got from the tourist office), we headed up the river to see the waterfalls. Sort of like if you could motor up the Hawkesbury to get to the Snowy River in under two hours.



The "bushwalk"was a bit underwhelming compered to the Australian benchmark (picture overweight Germans tottering along in high heels) but the interactive historical displays of weaving, blacksmithing and milling were superb, as was the natural beauty of the waterfalls.



We stayed in the Marina at the little town of Skradin, surrounded by the Pines and the rocky surrounds. So far today we have enjoyed a couple of swims in the icy fresh water, a coffee in the bar at the end of the dock, and a ploughmans lunch prepared by my lovely wife Catherine, the best shag on three continents (and counting). As I write this the sun is beaming down, the boys are doing homework, and I am sitting in the cockpit on our Ikea cushions wondering whether 3.30 pm is too early to have a beer or whether I should be respectable and do some excercise.

Au revoir!