Noodling in Turkey

After Baz helped us get the aircon system going, we have become recluses below deck when in port, only emerging near sundown in the manner of strange aquatic marsupials. Having had almost all of our power to date manufactured by the solar panels and wind generator, we have been feeling smugly green and close to nature. However, our green ethos went down in flames in the airless near 40 degree heat of southern Turkey in high summer. In all of our marina stays we now stamp our giant carbon footprints straight over to the power point, get the 220 V going, and recline in comfort downstairs.

“Sorry to be such antisocial neighbours” I said with a cool, crisp wave to the sweaty family next to us in Kalkan marina as I pulled the hatch closed behind me: this summarises the level of our social interaction in Turkish harbours.

The Captain

We have spent the last 2 weeks noodling eastward from Marmaris with lots of anchoring out in beautiful locations, swimming and snorkeling. We can generally expect a cooling 10 kts or so when we are swinging on the anchor and enjoying our boom tent with it’s various zip-on attachments. The towns are airless but as I mentioned, we now have a strategy for this.

The pancake boat, Cold Water Bay.

Unfortunately the meltimi doesn’t really make it round the “corner” into the Med proper, so sailing this coast has been frustratingly patchy at best. Nonetheless, we always look out for an opportunity for a pitched duel with another yacht when we can find one, even if our "competitors" are probably reading books with the autopilot on.

Talk to this man if you need a long line taken ashore

After Fethiye we motored down to Kalkan.  On the way we anchored off Patara beach and....went surfing. Yes, it can be done in the med if you weigh less than 30kg and have low expectations. The boys were stoked and being in some dynamic water perked everyone up, less so Cathe though who was catapulted out of the dinghy when I tried to push it onto a wave. Whoops.

In Kalkan we hired a car and had a day trip to see Xanthos, Tlos, and the canyon at Saklikent. The Lycians were dominant in this area before the Romans came through and gobbled them up, busily building cities, agora and theatres. Unlike Greece there are only limited connections to heroes of old (although according to Homer Lycia contributed soldiers to the defense of Troy.) So while we remain interested in our ancient history, we are becoming slightly blasé about ruins. Indeed, at Tlos a closer look at the hot and dusty site failed to compete with the opportunity to simply do a drive-by in the air conditioned comfort of the car.

Saklikent offered a welcome respite from the heat. The ice-cold water bubbles up out of the rocks in a tall, narrow gorge that has a very Australian outback feel. All the restaurants have cushions on timber platforms, built just above the gushing water, which makes for a cooling effect and a nice vista for lunch. After walking up the gorge and swimming down the rapids in the last section of canyon, we went “tubing” down the river with a couple of fun guides.

Tubing in Saklikent

After Kalkan we moved on to Kas, again more with a couple of nights anchored in the bay, and from there down to Kekova Bay, with more picturesque anchorages and (underwater) Lycian ruins.

Underwater sarcophagus, Kekova

Notable here was the great goat rescue. We anchored in a narrow inlet and in the morning the (silly) billy goat was still stuck on the same ledge, bleating plaintatively. Closer investigation by dinghy indicated the goat’s interest in human assistance, and despite the absence of goat skeletons on other ledges (in the same way there are no cat skeletons up trees) we decided the drama of a rescue was too much to resist, so we mobilized the team for a rescue. This we duly effected by dragging poor old billy off his ledge and into the water, leading him to some nearby rocks from which he climbed to safety and a reunion with his patient family.

The Great Goat Rescue

Many of the anchorages are fed by fresh water springs, with the cold fresh water forming a shallow layer on top of the warm salt water: an odd experience for a swim although any cooling effects are most welcome. 

We are now back in Fethiye trying to organise a delivery skipper who will take Familia to Naples while we enjoy a shore journey to Istanbul, Rome, and other land destinations TBA.

The days blur as we hang at the pool, enjoy the luxury of the internet, have frustrating conversations with commercial skippers, and hang downstairs (as discussed above.) Waistlines and brain muscles continue to sag although an hour in the pool with the boys is almost a workout. Once again, everyone is itchy to move on, now with the impetous to get off the boat and enjoy some time ashore.

Bye for now.